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Flexx bars

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stu Fifty Arrrrrrrrr
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 5:12 pm Post subject: Flexx bars Reply with quote Back to top

Hi just wondering, with the flexx bars which colour elastomers represent what amount of flex, got blue, black yellow and red but have misplaced my instructions I think from memory red was the hardest and black the softest but im not sure. Thanks Stu
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 5:28 pm Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

blue is the softest to black
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ATC250RG
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Joined: 29 Dec 2008
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 7:16 pm Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

Hardest to Softest

Black => Red => Yellow => Blue
 
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stu Fifty Arrrrrrrrr
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Location: Newcastle NSW

PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 7:18 pm Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

Thanks guys big help. Cheers Stu.
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86 atc 250r.
86 trx 250r (project).
78 atc 70.
laydown 200 atc 70.
71 parrot green 90 ballooooony.
81 atc 185s.
 
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2009 9:03 pm Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

If you pre-crush them in a vise down to about 5mm nd release,
it kind of fast track runs them in to what they would settle down to anway.
It roughly drops each colour about a grade.

Old blues are really soft, and brand new blacks are like rocks.
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stu Fifty Arrrrrrrrr
Big Bore, Stroked & Bling +


Joined: 22 Sep 2007
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Location: Newcastle NSW

PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 5:10 am Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

Ok sweet, Im gonna try them all and see which one feels best for me, but just made it hard not knowing which color rep which density. Cheers Stu.
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86 atc 250r.
86 trx 250r (project).
78 atc 70.
laydown 200 atc 70.
71 parrot green 90 ballooooony.
81 atc 185s.
 
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 11:05 am Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

They do take a bit to get used too, especially if you go for the softer options.
Most run Red or Yellow, if they are looking at heavy impact protection, protecting broken bokes etc.
Reds are really like 'stop breaking things' insurance and still give a very solid, positive feel with very direct control.
Blue are the best for reducing vibration, fatigue, arm pump etc, but they do move a lot more, so if you go straight to them they might feel too soft and a bit strange for a while.

Going in between with new Yellows are a good place to start because you will experience the advantages without taking a drastic step from normal fixed bars.
Being new, they will also further soften with use, which you'll appreciate over time without noticing it feelng wierd.

At about 90kg, I run Yellow for MX and blue for Enduro/desert.
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stu Fifty Arrrrrrrrr
Big Bore, Stroked & Bling +


Joined: 22 Sep 2007
Posts: 393
Location: Newcastle NSW

PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2009 3:17 pm Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

Good advice Wink your doing all the hard work for me lol.
I'll start mid-way as you suggest and work from there but as you say different environment conditions, style of riding etc may call for diff grades, so the trick will be in me knowing which one best suits me for which occasion/environment/style. Thanks for all the help.
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86 atc 250r.
86 trx 250r (project).
78 atc 70.
laydown 200 atc 70.
71 parrot green 90 ballooooony.
81 atc 185s.
 
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Outlaw Banshee
Blaster class


Joined: 29 Dec 2008
Posts: 183
Location: Melbourne

PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 11:12 pm Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

maybe someone might know the answer to this for me - when you change elastometer what is the recommended torque for the the nut when you do it back up? or does it not matter so long as both sides are even? as the more you tighten even the softer ones they get harder anyways.
 
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2009 11:33 pm Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

In the elastomer kit, you would have got 2 x flat washes.
By changing the preload on the elastomers, or adding the washers under the elastomers, you can tune the angle of the control sections.

I run them a bit higher than std bars to allow for the down movement.
But it's up to you.
If you stand the bars up more (rolled forward) you might like no washers and more preload (nuts tighter).
If you roll the bars back a lot, you might put the washers in to get the angle of the control section a bit flatter (higher).

Hope that makes sense, it's not easy in type Smile
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