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buzzbro
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 2:26 pm Post subject: Toe settings Reply with quote Back to top

What toe in/out settings do you guys run and is it model specific?
My Z tends to wander at high speed i am running close to 0 toe, could this be the cause?
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Hudson
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 3:38 pm Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

If you've got caster adjustments give it a few degrees more positive caster. If not then 3-5mm of toe out will help with high speed stability
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skidplate
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Joined: 19 Oct 2008
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 8:09 pm Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

Hi, I am new to quads, so I may be getting it wrong, my experience is from car racing.
The more caster the more stability at speed, agreed.
But more toe out makes a car more jittery and more willing to change direction.
I thought that for stability one would need to toe in.
Again, I have been wrong before... . javascript:emoticon('Smile')
 
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2008 9:47 pm Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

Totally agree with Hudson.
I run anything from 0 for lower speed stuff or 2 - 5mm out for higher speed stuff.

But consider that on most off road surfaces, quads in general get a bit loose at high speeds.
Is it very noticably looser than you mates quads etc?
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PeteW
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 2:38 pm Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

It's pretty much just a trait of a standard width Z400 Glen. They dont have much castor built into the standard geometry (most jap quads are set at about 1 - 2 degrees). A little more toe In or Out will help though, just depends on what other effect you want it to have. Toe out will make it more stable at high speed but not as easy to turn in on tighter trails whilst toe in will make it easier to turn in but will not give you as much stability.

If you've got somewhere close you can go for a ride then try setting 5mm Toe In and go for a quick ride then come back and set 5mm Toe Out and have another ride to compare the difference.
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Last edited by PeteW on Mon Nov 17, 2008 3:51 pm; edited 1 time in total
 
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 3:25 pm Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

Watch your ride heights too.
If you are running lots of preload on the rear shock and not so much on the front, you will change the angle of the chassis to point down.
Because the A-arms are bolted to the chassis, if the bike leans forward, you could very easily lose all of that 1 or 2 degrees of castor that Pete is talking about.
Maybe try less preload on the back if you think it is a bit high.
Keep in mind that you will change other characteristics of the quad by doing this too.
For example it may feel a bit back end heavy when sliding if you go too low at the back, understeer a bit more, and lift the front more under power.

Your frame clearance should sit around 10mm lower at the back than the front with you sitting centrally on the bike.
Then you'll at least have your 2 degrees castor Smile
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buzzbro
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 3:45 am Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

Thanx for the info,it looks like it comes down to takin a handfull of spanners and going for a ride to try and find a happy medium.
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skidplate
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 6:53 pm Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

Bullet,
The 10mm height difference front to rear.
Is it more or less the same for all quads?
I have an LTR450 and tried 23 front and 22 rear tyre for clearance and it does not feel right. The frame is more or less level after playing with the preload. Can this tyre combination work or should I go to 21inch rear ?
 
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priesty
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 6:54 am Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

Hey Buzz, would your strg damper adjustments be able to compensate for this issue ?

cheers.....
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