OZ ATV :: The Australian ATV Forum

[Dickie]

I know there are a lot of people out there who have a lot of knowledge on the Can-Am DS450. And I also know there are probably other people who own a DS450 and have some questions about it. I also know there have been many arguments over the DS450, issues and it always comes back to: every bike has its issues.

I just thought I would start this thread to show a few bits and pieces I have done with my DS450 to combat some of the issues I have encountered.

So, if you have any issues or questions you wish to ask, throw them up.

I am currently doing some work to my DS on the cooling system. I have broken the plastic seat post connected to the Coolant overflow bottle, and also know there is a cooling modification offered by both Motoworks and BCS Performance. So I am currently completing the BCS Cooling Modification on my DS450 and will post pictures up in the near future.

Josh

[Guinness82]

Hey I've had ds450's for the last 3 years and love them. Have seen the bcs cooling mod but can't see any advantage to doing it be interested in seeing wot u think? My first ds was an 08 never had any electrical problems with it at all also have a 2011 that has given a few thinking about getting the bcs race harness for it. Anyone have any extra info on them?

[Dickie]

Hi mate. Thanks for your input. The more people contribute, the more other people will get out of this thread.

I got my first DS, a 2009 xmx at the beginning of 2009. I now have a 2011, and across both of them I have picked up a few things here and there. Two problems I have had are Limp-mode and electrical (mainly relay) issues.

Some people have had Limp-mode issues in MX races, where the bikes temperature exceeds the thresholds and the bike cuts the rev's in half to preserve the engine. For an MX Races, this can be rather annoying, but there are certainly benefits in the function in regards to prolonging the life of the motor. You can flash the ECU to remove limp mode, but no in Australia (that I am aware of). But in talking with BCS they have said that doing the radiator mod, you can reduce engine temps by 20 degrees (which I assume to be Fahrenheit). BCS have said that the extra air above the motor allows the hot air to escape, rather than being pocketed in up there. I have also hole-sawed two, 1 inch holes in the plastic insert that goes below the tank and behind the fuel cap.

So that is one reason I am trying it, but not the main reason, as I havent had heating issues recently. The other reason I am trying it is because you replace the stock coolant overflow tank that has the seat latch on it, with a metal seat latch, that wont break (I always break the plastic seat latch very early). And, the process really is quite easy.

In regards to the wiring harness. I was going to send my harness away to BCS, as I am not sure if you have had issues with relays and things like that, but I sure have. Plus it eliminates a lot of unnecessary wiring. But, I ended up going with the Can-Am Race Department harness and it has been great. The relays are in an enclosed cover so that water cannot damage them etc. I also had my fan hard wired so it is always running.

Other things I have changed are the stock spark plug leads and replaced them with NGK Race leads. As the stock boots break the first time you take them off the plug. And upgraded the front master cylinder to a honda cylinder, as I found the stock brakes to be rather poor. Also, I have no upgraded to the BCS race bearing carrier, as mine self destructed!

[Dickie]

BCS Performance Radiator Modification (I will edit this post with updates as I go along).

1) I drained all coolant out of the block and lines. This can be done by taking out the drain plug bolt on the left side of the motor.

2) I disconnected all lines to the stock radiator and removed it.

3) I removed the T Junction from the Radiator hose that runs from the left side of the motor, along the frame rail to the Bottom of the radiator. I then Cut in an in-line cooler.



4) I removed the Coolant Over flow tank.

5) I removed the spigot from the front right side of the motor that has the hose connected that runs to the small spout on the top of the radiator. I then replaced this spigot with a 6mm x 12 mm bolt, a copper washer and loctite.



5) I then had the option of replacing the stock radiator with the BCS Radiator (which is a stock radiator with a cap added), or buying the Neck from BCS and have it added to my stock radiator. I bought the neck and had a local shop attach it to the radiator for me. I also had them remove the small spout on the top of the radiator and close the hole.



6) I then used one of the smaller diameter radiator hoses that I removed as the overflow line from the neck of the radiator. I ran it behind the radiator and used a zip tie to hold it in place.







7) I then connected all of the lines that are still being used, flushed the system with distilled water and filled with coolant again. I left the cap loose over night to let the coolant settle. I ran the bike with the cap loose and let the system work out the air bubbles and topped the radiator up. I then put the cap on and ran the bike for a while and monitored that no coolant was spilling out of the overflow hose. I will also then monitor coolant levels for the first few rides.



8 ) As the stock coolant overflow tank is used for the seat latch (which always breaks) you also need to get a BCS Seat latch. Bolting it in the conventional way means that you have to take it off each time you take the plastics off. I am trialling running a bolt up through the mount, through the seat latch, and then using a nut to secure the seat latch with thread remaining. This will fix the seat latch in place before adding the plastics. The bolt hole for the plastics will fit snug over this nut, where I will then add a larger washer and another nut to hold the plastics in place.











The only pain about this modification is that you have to take the plastics off the check the coolant levels. However, after having A DS for years, racing many moto-x races and even TP300, I have never seen the DS lose any more than a few drops of coolant.

At the end of it, this was all that was taken out of the DS450 cooling system, and the rest can be completed with the BCS Radiator, Seat Latch, In-line cooler and existing hoses.



*The information above is simply general information about how I have completed this modification and is by no means me telling you how to do it!

Last edited by Dickie on Sun Sep 09, 2012 6:33 pm; edited 1 time in total

[X-Factor 1]

Nice mods , i have just acquired a ds450 08 and have been slowly fixing issues!! My most annoying thing at present is it won't idle but if i give it a rev it will hold then stall i never had any issues at all with renegade? Any input would be great
_________________
Darren Colbert
X-Factor Engineering Atv Racing
Canam Renegade / Ds 450

[Dickie]

Hmmmm.... I have never had that issue. But check the spark plugs and boots.

[Dickie]

Finished the BCS Radiator Modification today. I am super happy with how it all worked out, and how EASY it was. Hoping to test it all out next weekend if my BCS Bearing Carrier arrives.

[Dickie]

Finally got to test my new BCS radiator set-up out and it appeared to work a charm.

I also put in a BCS Bearing Carrier with the centre crush tube for a longer lasting, strong bearing carrier set up.

And finally, I am now running a BCS Performance Intake ring.

If anyone wants to know anything about the parts I am running and how to get hold of them, let me know.

[Guinness82]

Wot did u think of the intake ring?

[Dickie]

The intake ring is nice. I have a quad squad intake ring as well and it is very similar and fits the fuel customs filters I use on the QS ring. The main difference is the lip the filter clamps too is not quite as long which actually makes filters easier to get on and off. I don't believe Adam makes the QS intake ring anymore. But the BCS ones are definitely worth the investment.

[Dickie]

BCS Intake Ring





FCI and K&N Filters for the BCS Intake Ring

[Dickie]

Ok. So having done the BCS Radiator Cap Modification one down side to it is that you have to take off all of the front plastics (which for DS450 owners you know is a lot) to check the radiator levels........

well not anymore!

FourWerx Carbon has created the A57 hood for the DS450 and it is awesome!

After seeing the previous attempt by another company I was not instilled with confidence straight away. However, as I run a BCS Radiator Cap Modification, and also a BRP Race Department Wiring Harness with the sealed fuse box at the front and the BUDS connection up there also, I was willing to give the hood a go......

AND I COULDN'T BE HAPPIER WITH IT!!!!!

FourWerx Carbon have NAILED IT! The Hood is easy to fit, excellent quality, it looks great and is extremely practical!

The Install:

Really, the install on this was really easy.

The hood and OEM Plastics before the install:





1. I sat the hood over the existing plastic and it was easy to tell where it was meant to sit. It is moulded perfectly to the OEM plastics. So when I had it lined up perfectly I marked the holes to drill in the plastic. A total of four quick release plastic fasteners are used to hold the hood in place.

2. I then took the plastics off the quad and drilled the holes. Make sure you are careful when you are drilling them and that you don't drill through anywhere accidentally.

3. Once the holes were drilled, you could put the plastics on and fit the hood. However, if you want access to whats under the front number plate you are going to have to do some cutting. I sat the hood on the plastics making sure it was in place and looked where it was showing underneath the nose piece. I marked out where I wanted to cut it at the front, and a line up the front number plate. Make sure you look on the under side of the plastics, as there are screws in the plastics holding the OEM Plastics together. I used them as a guide as to where I made my cuts.

4. Now with the centre cut out the plastics are effectively in two pieces, left side and right side, and held together by the hood and the front grill. I re-mounted all of the plastics into place.





5. Now that all of the OEM Plastics are in place, I was able to mount the hood fully for the first time. And it lined up perfectly. I also pulled the existing graphics off my old plastics and placed them on to the hood (until my new ones arrive in a few weeks). To get the body line graphics that come down the front number plate to work properly, I had to slice a line through them behind the hood so they are in two pieces now, so that you can easily take the hood off without the graphics being attached to the OEM Plastic and the Hood together.













Really, the process to fit this hood is extremely easy and the end result looks unreal! Again, top work to FW Carbon! If anyone has any questions don't hesitate to ask! Be sure to check out their website:

http://www.fwcarbon.com/

Josh

www.facebook.com/jdick38