OZ ATV :: The Australian ATV Forum

[jaffakatie]

Shineray XY250 Manual (yes the brand explains the whole problem!!)
OK initially but developed a problem that has been persistent but has got worse.
Starts fine, goes for a 5-10 minutes fine in any gear, but gradually loses power in anything but first gear.
When going down a hill, not a problem, but as soon as you turn onto the flat or uphill (and make the motor work just a little bit harder) it just loses power within a few seconds and you have to change down to first – (it will go fine in first).
It does not cough or miss or splutter, it’s just a gradual power loss over about 5 seconds, from which it does not recover.
Just lately its also revving hard when it gets put into neutral or the clutch gets held in – but again, not at first, only after been in use 5-10 minutes.
What has been done:

Fuel system cleaned out
Fuel filter put inline (it actually didn’t have any fuel filter).
Spark plugs have been replaced
Coils have been replaced
Carby cleaned out
Choke cable (into a little switch) broke moved it into a little lever on the handlebar. The choke would stick and would have to manually push it back down, but not a problem now with the moved lever.

Any suggestions?
Or what about replacement carbies? Would there be some other brand anyone knows that would fit?
thank you

[wa5]

Idleing high? wouldnt be leaning out would it?

[Sean O]

The things I would check would be -
Valve clearance.
CDI.
Fuel/air mixture.
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[doel#20]

check the rubber boot between the inlet and carb is sealed correctly and also check for any cracks ect, When it reving high in neutral grap a can of crc and spray over the boot if revs drop off you have a leak

[kingquad]

oops. some body wrote what I was going to.

[jaffakatie]

Before it gets pulled apart again, could you specify
Valve clearance - what should it be
CDI - what actually do you check


Also are these things above (plus fuel/air mixture) are things you think might be affecting the power loss compared to the high revving.

The revving is only recent and while annoying, it's the power loss that is critical.

And where can we get replacement parts if carby cracked or boot is perished
(Note it is a twin cylinder)

thank you

[Big Jb TRX450]

if i were you id get a long rag, dip it in petrol..make sure it leads to the open fuel tank, grab some marshmellows then light it up while looking in the classifieds for a main stream brand...problem solved
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04 TRX 450r
with a bit of this & a bit of that

[fossil800R]

Big Jb TRX450 wrote:

if i were you id get a long rag, dip it in petrol..make sure it leads to the open fuel tank, grab some marshmellows then light it up while looking in the classifieds for a main stream brand...problem solved

bit harsh JB...it's not a Can-am
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I'm not suffering from insanity, I'm enjoying it!!!

[bullet]

Sounds basic, but i have to throw it out there...
Have you checked the fuel cap to make sure it breaths.
Ride it until it does it again, and crack the fuel cap loose when it happens and see if it comes good.
_________________
Can-Am X Team
Bullet #Y12. MrsB #Y18.

[Big Jb TRX450]

fossil700R wrote:

bit harsh JB...it's not a Can-am

cheers dad, why make a can-am reference at me? i dont ride one..lol bit ironic actually, i copped alot of crap over buying little miss a main stream brand bike for her 1st & not an import. other friends of mine thought it was a waste of money...
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04 TRX 450r
with a bit of this & a bit of that

[TasATV]

Big Jb TRX450 wrote:

if i were you id get a long rag, dip it in petrol..make sure it leads to the open fuel tank, grab some marshmellows then light it up while looking in the classifieds for a main stream brand...problem solved

Petrol and marshmellows are probably more valuable than the quad!
_________________
2010 Sukuki
750AXi
Copperhead VDI ECU,
Twin 35 watt LED driving lights.
50 LED reversing light.
Oxford heated hand grips.

[Sean O]

jaffakatie wrote:

Before it gets pulled apart again, could you specify Valve clearance - what should it be CDI - what actually do you check Also are these things above (plus fuel/air mixture) are things you think might be affecting the power loss compared to the high revving. The revving is only recent and while annoying, it's the power loss that is critical. And where can we get replacement parts if carby cracked or boot is perished (Note it is a twin cylinder) thank you

Where are you located ? State/city ?
I know a few shops in Brisbane.
What type of machine is it ? Bike/quad
Did you buy the bike new from a shop ? they should carry spares. (should)

I looked up shineray xy250 and a few different machines came up, dirt bike, quad, road bike but none of them listed a twin cylinder ?
You don't have to pull the motor apart to adjust the valves, I couldn't tell you off hand what the valve clearence is sorry.
You can't check a CDI, just replace it. Depending on where you buy from, cost between $20-$40.

Sean.
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[fossil800R]

Big Jb TRX450 wrote:

fossil700R wrote: bit harsh JB...it's not a Can-am cheers dad, why make a can-am reference at me? i dont ride one..lol bit ironic actually, i copped alot of crap over buying little miss a main stream brand bike for her 1st & not an import. other friends of mine thought it was a waste of money...

sorry son, it was not in reference to you but to burning a faulty quad. I originally wrote kawasaki but pictured that wonderful magnificent human Yogie removing my account. Sorry for hi jacking the thread Jaffa.
_________________
I'm not suffering from insanity, I'm enjoying it!!!

[priesty]

Sounds like air/fuel leak somewhere\, or blocked fuel vent in fuel cap as bullet suggests.
The clutch could be slipping too.
Be careful if you adjust valve clearances yourself as these motors are a CB 250 clone (234cc parallel 15% twin), & the piston cycles are not opposed but tandem.(both pistons go up & down together).
just my 2c.
_________________
The term "Foolproof" seriously underestimates the ingenuity of Fools.


08 700xx

[jaffakatie]

God only knows what's going on with it now.
Also rang Zuma (Shineray distributers) and spoke to a VERY nice, helpful man, Michael.
He said
1. Check fuel cap valve - nope that didn't help.
2. Check hidden filter inside fuel tank by removing tap - nope, not problem, plenty fuel was coming through.
3. Needle in carby - hmmm - checked
4. float level in carby - checked

But last two in list don't know until start it again - and can't!!!

Bike pulled apart again, all cleaned out again and now won't start at all.
rrrr rrr rrr sound - that is, it's turning over, it's got spark, but not kicking in.
Been pulled apart a number of times before and always could start it again, now nothing, even leaving it a day.

Michael also said carby would not be cracked - otherwise fuel would come out and he thought not a major thing, as there would be much worse problems. He thought some reason for fuel starvation when load applied.

Marshmallows are looking really good. Its extremely cold where I live (New England Tablelands) so a bonfire would be good too.

By the way, have asked and no nearby motorbike shops (Armidale and Inverell) will look at the chinese bikes. Zuma doesn't deal in quads, and a previous distributor I rang last year imported only automatics (jeff@shineray.com.au -- he seems to be out of business now). I directly contacted Shineray (and described problem) and they said - "haven't made that for at least 3 years, we don't have any spares" - great after sales service hey!! And we bought this at a clearing sale about 3 years ago - not from a distributor - at that point we never knew anything about chinese motorbikes - just assumed that you could get them repaired and get parts like other bikes.

But the reality is we have a small farm, bike is used regularly but not for hours and hours each day, so a $5000 bike is too expensive. I can not even find a second hand Japanese quad that looks like it would still go, for less than $2000. To get cheap ones you really have to be in the right place at the right time and know the right person. Brought a 250 yamaha quad home from the golf club (yes on the gold club committee and had done lots voluntary work hence why could have it) - they got a new one and this one couldn't go in reverse, even after being to the local bike and small motor repair shop in town. Brought it home, fixed a spring and now goes in reverse! And it was free . Got a yamaha 2 wheeler out of the dump on the research station where we worked years ago. Got it going and kept it for next to nothing in repairs. But clearing sales or advertised second hand - too much competition, everyone wants them.

[bullet]

I might be way off here, but i'm just trying to help you clutch at straws...

Sometimes a very slightly riding inlet valve can do funny things.
When the valve heats up (after 10 minutes) it can grow and lose clearance and therefore compression???
Look for some reasonable clearance 0.004+
_________________
Can-Am X Team
Bullet #Y12. MrsB #Y18.

[jaffakatie]

Priesty,
I just want to be absolutely sure these are a CB250 clone Honda (I saw that on another thread in relation to some other model and have been trying to verify with no luck). Because if so, then maybe I could get a replacement carby - I can't find much on web but they appear to be quite expensive??? $500?? does that sound right?

Also, there are CB250's for years, Dream CB250 1968-73. And there are still CB250s being made. So is it a particular year or have they all had the same carby for all that time. So far I've not heard or seen anything on the net the same as THIS bike (as said, don't know exact model, but I've heard "I didn't know they made a twin cylinder" a number of times now).

And you said: Be careful if you adjust valve clearances yourself as these motors are a CB 250 clone (234cc parallel 15% twin), & the piston cycles are not opposed but tandem.(both pistons go up & down together).
What does that mean? I know what you mean about opposed but when you say be careful, of what exactly - do I have to do something specific?

Bullet, you said about checking valve clearances Could you explain more precisely, only I thought I saw mention of clearance elsewhere that was 0.5 or 0.05 which is still a fair way from 0.004+.
So when check clearances (hot or cold) and how much exactly, please.

thank you

[Linc]

Auto decomp is stuck?........

[dangerman4]

jaffakatie wrote:

you say be careful, of what exactly - do I have to do something specific? Bullet, you said about checking valve clearances Could you explain more precisely, only I thought I saw mention of clearance elsewhere that was 0.5 or 0.05 which is still a fair way from 0.004+. So when check clearances (hot or cold) and how much exactly, please. thank you

Your above .5 and .05 is a metric measurement
Bullets 0.004 is a imperial measurement

just so u know 0.1mm = 0.004 thou

[bullet]

As Dangerman said. Ideally you should just set the clearances up to the manufacturers specs.
But as a quick cold clearance check, their should be something.
I have recommended 0.004" as a basic minimum just to check if it is the problem.
There is only a chance that it is the problem, and if this is the case, you will most likely find that the clearance is almost non-existant.
In that case you may get loose sideways movement, like it's not actually riding the valve with any pressure, but not measure any real clearance.
In this situation, as the engine starts ok and as it warms up, the valve can grow in lenght and start to ride and you will loose compression.

It may not be the problem, but worth checking if you have checked so many other things to be ok.
_________________
Can-Am X Team
Bullet #Y12. MrsB #Y18.