OZ ATV :: The Australian ATV Forum

[Clarkie]

Whats a good camber/caster - toe in/out set up for an LTZ400 with + 2 arms for medium pace trail riding, thanks
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[bullet]

here's my guess

6 degrees castor
6 degrees camber
3mm toe out
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Can-Am X Team
Bullet #Y12. MrsB #Y18.

[The Dutch guy]

I know this post is a couple of weeks old...but here's my setup:

If its bendy go with 1 or 2 degrees Caster, 2 degrees negative camber and 4 to 8 mm toe-OUT

If its more straight go with 3 to 5 degrees caster, 1 degree negative camber and 4 to 8 mm toe-IN

good luck!
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2008 Raptor700SE Road use
2006 Honda TRX450r-HRC MXcomp use

[Clarkie]

Have got 6 deg camber and caster, 0mm tow in/out turns like a dream and is super light to steer but gets a but twitchy at speeds any ideas?
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Has turned to the Dark Side!

[JRE]

omm toe will make it twichy toe it out a couple mm should be much more stable at speed.
But wont turn in as good

[Oldrodder]

Just cut it off and put some forks on it, then you won't have to worry about toe in and out.

[bullet]

Nice trike advice

As JRE suggested, add a bit of toe out for general riding.
Not for speedway though, it will increase your 'toe-out on turns' which will slow you down when on opposite lock and make catching a loop out a little harder.

6 deg castor should be enough, but try more if your steering is still light.

How are you measuring the 6 degrees castor?
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Can-Am X Team
Bullet #Y12. MrsB #Y18.

[The Dutch guy]

..I see that the riding setups in Oz are WAY different then the way we setup here in Holland.

6 deg camber/caster? ..If i would run that, then the first tabletop i hit would be the end for the front hubs i think.
1 or 2 deg is enough... in Holland that is.. You can also set it up by pressing down on the front suspension. When you reach the maximum travel you get on the track you ride,then the wheels should be straight up(0 deg).

About the toe-in/out, When we ride sand tracks we go toe-in and when we ride hard surface, we go for toe-out.

I run the Houser Slicasts on my TRX450R. It has the quick adjust pins on the ends with the degrees on them for the caster adjustment.
Like on a motocycle,the more backwards leaning the hub is(on a bike the forks)...the more straightforward stability you have. More straight up wil make you turn better but you get less straight line stability.
On the bendy tracks(which are usually hard surface),we go for 1 or 2 deg caster. on the sand tracks we run 5 or 6 deg caster because the tracks have deep lines to follow and you want to stay in that line.
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2008 Raptor700SE Road use
2006 Honda TRX450r-HRC MXcomp use

[Raptor700Matt]

The Dutch guy wrote:

..I see that the riding setups in Oz are WAY different then the way we setup here in Holland. 6 deg camber/caster? ..If i would run that, then the first tabletop i hit would be the end for the front hubs i think. 1 or 2 deg is enough... in Holland that is.. You can also set it up by pressing down on the front suspension. When you reach the maximum travel you get on the track you ride,then the wheels should be straight up(0 deg). About the toe-in/out, When we ride sand tracks we go toe-in and when we ride hard surface, we go for toe-out. I run the Houser Slicasts on my TRX450R. It has the quick adjust pins on the ends with the degrees on them for the caster adjustment. Like on a motocycle,the more backwards leaning the hub is(on a bike the forks)...the more straightforward stability you have. More straight up wil make you turn better but you get less straight line stability. On the bendy tracks(which are usually hard surface),we go for 1 or 2 deg caster. on the sand tracks we run 5 or 6 deg caster because the tracks have deep lines to follow and you want to stay in that line.

good post bro
cheers matt
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Raptor700Matt
2010 Raptor 700 SE
2011 450R SE
2011 Raptor 90 x2

Thanks Bikes N Gear WHYALLA

[Clarkie]

Tizmeraptor700 wrote:

The Dutch guy wrote: ..I see that the riding setups in Oz are WAY different then the way we setup here in Holland. 6 deg camber/caster? ..If i would run that, then the first tabletop i hit would be the end for the front hubs i think. 1 or 2 deg is enough... in Holland that is.. You can also set it up by pressing down on the front suspension. When you reach the maximum travel you get on the track you ride,then the wheels should be straight up(0 deg). About the toe-in/out, When we ride sand tracks we go toe-in and when we ride hard surface, we go for toe-out. I run the Houser Slicasts on my TRX450R. It has the quick adjust pins on the ends with the degrees on them for the caster adjustment. Like on a motocycle,the more backwards leaning the hub is(on a bike the forks)...the more straightforward stability you have. More straight up wil make you turn better but you get less straight line stability. On the bendy tracks(which are usually hard surface),we go for 1 or 2 deg caster. on the sand tracks we run 5 or 6 deg caster because the tracks have deep lines to follow and you want to stay in that line. good post bro cheers matt

How do you like the Houser Slicast Arms, been thinking of changing the TRX ones.

I remeasured the toe in and now the front end has settled in it had 5 mm toe in, adjusted it to 4mm toe out and will give it a squirt on Monday.

It doesnt get used for speedway Bullet, only trail riding and am measuring the angles with a degree thingy that my mate uses on his sprintcar, its got a straight edge and a degree thing that floats in fluid, I check the caster on the ball joint threads and camber on the rim edge
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Has turned to the Dark Side!

[bullet]

Ok sounds like you are measuring the angles well.
I just asked because graduations or indicators on aftermarket arms don't account for the frame angle that they are essentially bolted to.
If when you ride the bike is sits nose high or low, that will change your castor before the indicator on the arm knows about it.
Even going from 18 inch rear tyres to 20's, would knock maybe a degree off your castor.
If your castor goes negative under brakes, the front end gets that 'fold underneath you' type feel about it.
The only real disadvantage of too much castor is heavy steering.
With your measurements, if you feel the steering is generally too heavy, i'd knock the castor back to 3 degrees first (leaving 2 - 4mm toe-out).
But remember to check your toe-in again after making camber and castor adjustments.
On some types of adjusters (probably most types) your toe-in will change.

The 5mm toe-in you measured will be the twitchy, fast steering response you were trying to cure.
They start to get pretty sketchy with more than 5mm toe in.

Your new 4mm toe-out will feel a lot flatter and smoother to turn, and you might want even want to run a bit less that that after you've tried it.
The only quads i run more than 4mm toe out are 4x4's, where the front wheels tend to pull forward under load.
For general riding, MX etc, I never run any toe-in on the DS, it's always somewhere between Zero and toeing-out.
But when it comes to the last 2 or 3 degrees of whatever angle, there is no real right or wrong and rider preference, type of quad, and type of riding account for bigger differences.

Some good advice from others too, sounds like your all over it now
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Can-Am X Team
Bullet #Y12. MrsB #Y18.

[The Dutch guy]

Think that Bullits post just explains it all!. especially on the Oz riding styles.
Dude really sounds like he knows what he is doing

..The Houser work really well for me, they have been on the quad for 4 years now and they have been beaten down for that whole time. (The guy i bought it from was a europeaan championship factory supported rider)

even now they are still in very good cond. Im rebuilding the quad and replacing all bearings,but it wasnt absolutely necessary.
The quick caster/camber adjust works really wel to.

good luck with the setup m8..and ride it like you stole it!
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2008 Raptor700SE Road use
2006 Honda TRX450r-HRC MXcomp use