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polaris Outlaw 500 07mod
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4fiddy Racer


Joined: 17 Apr 2007
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 10:32 am Post subject: polaris Outlaw 500 07mod Reply with quote Back to top

hey!

we go the dual exaust upgrade when we bought the quad and i was wondering what you would do to upgrade reliablity and power/speed!

looking over a few fourms they say polaris seam to make there bikes run ritch @ standard so jetting it and stuff would power it up a bit!
also the stock air filter looks to me to be very restrictave!
it's really fine!!! (wondering if a uni/knN filter would be less restrictave and or less/more air filtering ability?)

also (after riding my mini bike for a year or two) i m thinking about whipping the carby off seeing if there's any way to port the intake myself
(not head just around the carbie/airfilter) (head work stays with the pro's)


i know the outlaw isnt the lightest quad (by far) and i m not the lightest person either (95ish) im interested in ways to make the bike proform better for my weight!
adjustable suspention is awsome tho i havent played with it as yet!

bumpy hard ground where we ride is ripping the tyres to shreads!
had it for a week and a half and there's about 20-30% gone on the rears!
i usually put hardest compound tyres on the motorbikes i own
should i get hard tyres for the quad too?



any one willing to leave a commet please do so!
i know minimal about setups and stuff so any info you can give me would be apriciated!
 
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 11:36 am Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

howdy random and welcome aboard, chap. Dont much about "doing up quads" but the tyre situion, I would be looking at a 6ply tyre, these are a lot tougher than a truer MX tyre if that makes any sense. Hope I havent confused you.... Hrm
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4fiddy Racer


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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2007 8:12 am Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

yeah i think the tyre situation is more a test of time with a few different types of tyres!

it should really show what type of tyre is the most durable!
as where we ride it loose and fixed rock! (mostly)



i m a little interested in the changing of air filters and jetting and stuff at the moment! ive been reading up plenty about jetting for yammies and hondas (not much info about polaris)

i m hoping to be able to give the engine a little more sting:D
(i would like it to keep up with a 700 raptor)Very Happy
tho without too much money spent!

yeah!
anyone else got any info?
on things they've done to there bike to give it more sting!?

(how quiet is this fourm?)
 
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cuzo
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PostPosted: Tue May 01, 2007 9:11 pm Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

Random

As fare as tyres go it depends on the style of ridding you are going to do or what you enjoy eg. Maxis razr2 are a 6 ply tyrer and give you awsome hook up but if your into sliding corners they will take more effort to cut them lose so more effort = more fatigue I have found the Maxis Razr PR are a good alrounder...

Back to your original Question POWER mods.... KnN drop in is the go she will breath better but she will also need more fuel Polaris run there bikes rich becuase 4 strockers love fuel..more fuel + Air at correct mixture = more power...


Below is a pick of my mod to the air box from advice from other O.S forums...be warned I nearly cooked it....it was running way to lean, I thought I had the jetting close by checking the plug but it is nearly impossible to check acuaratly unless you dyno it.. The plug looked ok but the dyno said 15/1 way to lean....



So it had to go to some one who new what thay were doing I sent it to Exsplosive Racing (JET 762) talk to him he rebuilt mine to my budget and has great advice...

I dont want to get into technical mumbo jumbo cuase I dont exsacly understand it myself but he refitted the original air box with a KnN and cut out the front of the box to increase air flow but not to kill air presure or volume so the original intake was used to the carb. I also have FMF exuast...high comp piston standard carb and cams and dyno'd at 55.2 at the wheels and yes it is a standard 700 eater, they will not catch you..(unless the change prockets hay rapmat)



Do yourself a favour and contact Zak from Exsplosive a little spent now may save you an engine....

http://www.explosiveracing.com.au/

Question...did you rejet when you fitted the duel exhuast or did the shop do it if they havnt dont ride its probly way to lean....
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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2007 12:21 am Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

you get a new jet with the pipes plus two types of ends for the mufflers,with and without spark arrestors. suttos have a k&n filter that fits.haven't dyno mine yet but will fit vortex & dyno before finke.
 
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4fiddy Racer


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PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2007 8:14 am Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

hey

yeah the boys that upgraded the zorst re-jetted it!

also the airbox on the 07outlaw's have a hole in it already so i m thinking just a transfer to a different filter and get it dynoed after that!

(tho ive been told to do it after 40hours use so it's broken in)
55.2 at the wheels sounds awsome!

the bro in law has the 700 raptor and i think his got a 48at the wheels!

as for porting and stuff like that?
anyone keen on that idea?
would only be a slight amount of widening to the carbie:)
in my head it sounds like a smart idea!

and it may be the wrong thread to do it but
the outlaw has IRS and i was wondering if lowering kits for it would be expencive? (if i ever wanted to test the beast at speedway)
also would harder suspention be better for the bigger rider:D (95ish kilo)
(as it bottem's out over some stutters and ruff terain, now an then anyway)
 
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cuzo
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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2007 8:46 pm Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

Port and polish is a must...for any engine mod.... They all come with that hole in them it actualy is supose to have a tube that runs off it and finishes to the underside of the left hand side of the seat as a direct air intake to the filter... drill some more the same size right across the front and i drilled larger holes in the bottom of it to get rid of and water that gets in.


Suspension

1) PRELOAD is when you adjust the length of the shock to match your body weight. The springs that you see on them controls PRELOAD.
2) COMPRESSION controls how easy or hard it is for the shock to squeeze together when you hit bumps.
3) REBOUND controls how fast the shock returns to its normal position after it has been compressed.
One note here, NOT all shocks on all ATVs have all these adjustments. Please consult you owners manual to determine which adjustments you can make.


Rear Shock - Preload adjustment


Front shock-Preload Adjustment
Preload Adjustment
By turning the large nut at the bottom of the spring you can adjust the springs tension to suit your body weight. To properly make this adjustment you will need to .measure the "ride height sag"....
REAR SHOCK
1) lift the rear wheels up off the ground.
2) With the wheels off the ground, measure the distance from the top center of the rear axle to some point straight above it on the ATVs frame. Write this dimension down.
3) With all your riding gear on plop your butt on the seat with your feet on the pegs in your normal riding position. Then have somone measure the distance again in the same place as the first measurment. The difference between the 2 measurments is called the "ride height sag".
4) Adjust your preload so that your "ride height sag" is about 30% of your total suspension travel. Example: If you have 9" of total travel you should have about 3" of ride height sag.
FRONT SHOCK
Use the same procedure EXCEPT your "ride height sag" should be about 20% of your total shock travel.

Measuring with wheels off the ground


Measure again with full riding gear on

Compression Adjustment
Adjusting the compression of the shock determines how fast the shock "compresses" together. This adjustment should be made according to the type of riding you plan on doing. The real trick here is set the suspension at the point where you use all the travel of the shock without bottoming out hard .
With the setting too soft the suspension will feel "mushy" and you feel like it's "floating".
With the setting too hard, You'll feel every little bump you hit because the shock isn't absorbing the bumps like it should.
You can start by setting the compression at full soft. Ride the ATV for a short while .Then begin to ride over small bumps. Begin to adjust the shocks to absorb the bumps without feeling mushy. As you adjust the compression on the shocks, gradually begin moving up to bigger bumps and jumps. Every time you progress to larger jumps amd bumps readjust the shocks. Keep doing this untill you reach the point where you have reached YOUR personal limit of bumps or jumping safely while using all the travel in the shocks. (It's even ok if you allow the shocks to bottom out "slightly" as you land your largest jump)
Front shock- Compression adjustment

Rear Shock-Compression adjustment



Rebound adjustment Rebound
The rebound adjustment is the setting that determines how fast the shock returns to its normal position.
Setting the rebound at full soft allows the shock to return to full extension more quickly. At this setting the ATV may begin to experience a pogo effect. As the rider speeds over bumps, a shock that returns too quickly may rebound right back up and smack you right in the Butt,sending you right over the handle bars.
Setting the rebound at full hard slows the return of the shock to it's normal position. At this setting as a rider speeds over bumps the shocks may not return to position fast enough causing the shocks "pack up". The more the shocks "pack up" The less travel they have untill they have a chance to return to their normal position.
The best way to set the rebound on your shocks is to find a set of"whoops". A series of rolling hills two feet high and six feet apart.
With the setting at full soft, ride through the whoops at a slow pace at first . Then each time you ride through the whoops go through a little faster adjusting the rebound untill you reach your fastest comfortable speed and the ATV is returning to its correct position without bucking you off.


It's not brain surgery
The MOST important thing to remember is...........ONLY MAKE ONE CHANGE AT A TIME !!!!! Doing one change at a time will allow you to get a better feel for how your suspension is responding to the changes. Making more than one change at a time will just confuse you because you won't know which change made a desired or undesired effect. Tuning in your suspension to suit your needs will make you a much happier camper.


Sorry about the essay man but give it a go it worked for me.
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noodles
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PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2007 10:54 pm Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

get on
www.predatorowners.com
they have info about outlaws aswell
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PostPosted: Fri May 04, 2007 12:53 pm Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

Random,

As I am not mechanicly minded I will pass on commenting about your power question but I will throw my 2c worth in about the tyre situation. I have used 2 brands so far (apart from stock crappy Dunlops) those are Kenda and ITP. The Kenda claws that are on my wifes 660 Rap have been great, hard wearing and good with punctures, her ATV is not stock either so I believe they have performed well. I have ITP XCR Holeshots on my very non stock Raptor and they are chewed to hell, I definately do not reccomend them (they are to light in construction.) Just mu 2c worth anyway.
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4fiddy Racer


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PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2007 8:31 am Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

awsome!

it's always good to see replys!!!
specially with relavant info!

thanks!

(stock tyres are 50% worn after 2.5 weeks!)
 
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PeteW
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PostPosted: Sun May 20, 2007 10:05 am Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

Random wrote:
awsome!

it's always good to see replys!!!
specially with relavant info!

thanks!

(stock tyres are 50% worn after 2.5 weeks!)


Are the stock tyres those Maxxis OEM things?

You Probably want to go to a Kenda Klaw XCR/XCF Combo to get better life out of them. Where abouts are you riding?
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4fiddy Racer


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PostPosted: Mon May 21, 2007 8:24 am Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

i'm riding in townsville QLD (north)

and if there where no rocks or dust there would be a big hole in the ground!

yeah it's all spin at the moment! not much grip!

but that happends!
yeah i'll be looking into a few different types of tyres!
see how i go i'll keep ya informed!

seeings how i'd be thinking im riding some of the hardest ground (as it's mostly rocks!)
i'll be able to tell ya what tyres ware out slower then others!Very Happy
 
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4fiddy Racer


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 11:56 am Post subject: hey it's been a while! Reply with quote Back to top

i got me some maxis I razors!
i had planned and ordered their cheeper maxis razors but they sent the werong ones and i got the i razors for the price of the cheeper so yeah! turned out alrite!

they dont go half bad!
hit a MX track on the weekend and there's still a suprisingly large amount of slip! (good for keeping revs up!) and, i think, enough grip! tho still finds it hard to mono in 4th!

i'm yet to upgrade anything other then the removal of the bafflers (oneday i'll test to see if it does anything! tho it feels like more power as in it comes on faster!)

yeah do most motorcros tracks allow quads?
i m going to head to the local one next weekend (if i can afford it!)

i'll wack some pics up next time i'm in!
also turning the wheels around makes my quad like a foot wider!
(would that be good for some flat track?)
just wondering if it'd break anything? wont jump like that tho!
 
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 8:41 pm Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

i run preditor rears 8" wider rear,2" spacers from hardimans in front,elka 3 dampener,22" itp holeshots for finkle no problems apart from damaged drive shaft boot.
 
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4fiddy Racer


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 31, 2007 9:49 am Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

dosnt help that my ute wont fit much wider then what ive got!!
(styleside!) tho i ve been jumping a bit to i dont think i want wider when jumping! as it may put extra strain on things! tho for beach/flat track stuff i m thinking about turning my wheels around! gives it about 10-13cm each side!(rear) and about 6-9cms (front!)

just wondering if there's anything wrong with turning ya rims around?
like twisting action wrecking things?
 
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4stroker



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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2007 9:22 am Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

i dunno what the offset is like on the outlaw wheels but everyone has been flippin their rims around for years with no problems!

it WILL put more stress strain on everything but it seems that on Banshees at least it is not an issue.

the outlaw however may be a different story..
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2007 9:23 am Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

ps what is the go with polaris having the outlaw 500 and the outlaw 525?

are they going to be selling these models side by side? if so, WHY?
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4fiddy Racer


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2007 11:16 am Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

the 525 version is the same bike with a ktm 525 engine in it!

aparently it's like 30kilo lighter! (tho uncertain comments have come back about that!)

they are selling side by side! aparently!
they look almost identical! apart from a different sticker and different engine:D

the I razors are fairly "profanity removed"! havnt ridden in like 1.5weeks (due to sickness) and previous to that losing like 15-20% of tread in sandy (minor rocky conditions!) in like 2 full on days of riding! (Bowen, Don River! was awsome!)


again about the turning of the rims! i'd be guessing it'd be easyer to break the outlaw with the IRS then again they havent been tested for this as yet (to my knolege!)
 
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PeteW
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2007 11:32 am Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

There was a guy a Finke with Pred Wheels on the back (way different offset) and spacers in the front. to make it wider, I prefer not to turn the front wheels around as it increases bump steer and the extra scrub makes it harder to turn.
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4fiddy Racer


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 3:51 pm Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

you wouldnt think that spacers or fliping the tyres would create more bump steer!!

because the bump steer is caused by the angle of the front wheels when ya hit bumps (not to explain more to be sure i know what i m talking about)

if lengthen something the angle is made smaller or stays the same!
i think (it's what my brain tells me)
 
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4fiddy Racer


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2007 11:38 am Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

if you asked your deal (at which you bought your bike)
about kill switches for your bike and they looked at you with a blank
stare would you still wanna buy one from them?

do polaris make a kill switch?
would an aftermarket one be better?cheaper?
would it be best to get the dealer put one in?
do you think it's a good idea to have one?

i ride trails, beach,some flattrack and lately jumping a bit!
 
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Robbo
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2007 12:34 pm Post subject: outlaw Reply with quote Back to top

polaris make tether switch plug into harness part no 2874379
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4fiddy Racer


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2007 4:17 pm Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

is there anywhere you can buy them online?
or i m guessing you'd need to get the dealer to order it:(

does polaris have a twist throttle?
(as much as most quad riders dissagree with there use)
 
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 25, 2007 12:48 am Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

i just fitted a dual one from hardimans on my 500 outlaw simple to fit
 
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TasRaptor700
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 25, 2007 9:49 pm Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

I have the Hardimans tether kill switch, 20 minutes to instal and works a treat, as for twist throttle, I tried one and it didn't feel right, went back to the thumb and just put up with a bit of cramp..
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