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Engine Break In

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IV
50cc nipper


Joined: 30 Aug 2009
Posts: 29
Location: Gold Coast

PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 11:17 am Post subject: Engine Break In Reply with quote Back to top

What is the best way? It seems there are so many ways to do it, what is the best one to stick with?

Cheers, Sam.
 
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bigjon
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Joined: 17 Feb 2006
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Location: Dubbo

PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 11:29 am Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

Ride it.
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IV
50cc nipper


Joined: 30 Aug 2009
Posts: 29
Location: Gold Coast

PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 11:38 am Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

Hard or Soft? Ride it how you plan on using it? Follow the manual?

Cheers.
 
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bigjon
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 11:59 am Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

I think people make it more complicated than what it is.

Ride it normally (unless you flog your stuff). If you flog your stuff it probably doesn't matter either. Don't forget, the dealer who put it together probably flogged it anyway in the back lot.

Only thing I do differently is change my oil after the first ride (~5hrs). It probably didn't need it, but I'm @nal!

Also, get an hour meter.
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IV
50cc nipper


Joined: 30 Aug 2009
Posts: 29
Location: Gold Coast

PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 12:23 pm Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

Cheers. Whats a good hour meter to get?

Sam.
 
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The Day Starts With OZATV !


Joined: 09 Sep 2006
Posts: 1518
Location: Middleton SA

PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 3:18 pm Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

2 cents.

For the first start, run it comfortably above idle for only 30 seconds or so with the least amount of choke possible (do not leave it idling on the choke to warm up)
Turn it off and allow the engine to heat soak for a minute while you re-check all fluid levels etc.
The block should feel a bit warm to touch, then start it again and ride it gently, like maybe less than half revs and half throttle for the first 5mins for an even warm up.

After that, just don't play around the rev limiter end of the scale for the first couple of hours and don't let it drop to a clunky idle (where oil pressure can get a bit low).

Don't run it in on a 40 degree day.

I agree with bigjon, before you get to serious, change the oil and filter before 5 hours (even half an hour if you are racing the next day) and have a good look at what comes out.

Assuming it's all good... give it what for Smile
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triple"A"
Roostin Away


Joined: 04 Aug 2006
Posts: 941

PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2009 11:28 pm Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

just to confuse you further

load it, load it heaps , low rpm but lots of load

do this in bursts ie run it gently for a bit then load it for a while and repeat this for a tank full of fuel

then go ride it like you want to for another tank

recheck all those adjustable bits if you have them ie valve clearances etc.

dump the oil and change the filter (dont forget to put new oil back in though lol)

and as you said, there are a heap of "correct methods" for running in. good luck with choosing one
 
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IV
50cc nipper


Joined: 30 Aug 2009
Posts: 29
Location: Gold Coast

PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 11:47 am Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

Thankyou for the confusion haha, no I think its good getting multiple ideas and methods, then i can take from all of them and see whats good. For the record I should be getting a 2010 LTZ 400 which im assuming they will stick with EFI incase that changes anything.

Cheers, Sam.
 
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The Day Starts With OZATV !


Joined: 09 Sep 2006
Posts: 1518
Location: Middleton SA

PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2009 4:30 pm Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

Running-in was a huge requirement way back when Adam used to play full back for Jerusalem.
Mechanics used to hand scrape bearings and shape them to a crankshaft.
Running in was critical because the engine basically ran on all the man made high spots until things wore in.
The first vintage car engines might have put out 5hp for 30 hours before a rebuild.

These days round things are made actually round by really smart machines, and tolernces are measured in ten thousandths of an inch.
So running-in instructions are largely a point of disclaimer that manufacturers still like to keep up their sleeve.

Go to any new car production line and see what they do to them as soon as they turn the key.

But yeah, everyone likes to do the sensible thing and look after their new machine and there are some good points popping up.
Really... it's more a case of just don't do anything stupid and stay away from all the extremes of operation.

On a new fuel injected machine from the factory, it's difficult to get it wrong.

Good luck with the new bike
Smile Smile Smile
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XavierRS
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Joined: 21 Jun 2009
Posts: 10
Location: Alexandria, NSW

PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 5:32 pm Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

Quote:
Go to any new car production line and see what they do to them as soon as they turn the key.


Bullet is right, I used to work for a comapny that bonded cars! (where they go after they come off the ship)

I remember one of the young guys driving a... (umm probally best not to tell you what) it had a hell of a rattle in it, I said to the guy that it sounded like a bag of spanners... his reply was "no problem" and reved the be-jesus out of it. I looked at him in horror, he just smiled and when the engine retured to an idle it purred like a kitten!

I know this has nothing to do with ATV's but a good story none the less! I have more where that come from laughing
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IV
50cc nipper


Joined: 30 Aug 2009
Posts: 29
Location: Gold Coast

PostPosted: Tue Sep 22, 2009 12:53 pm Post subject: Reply with quote Back to top

wow, yeah I think I will just ride it normally, but probably stay off the real top end for a while.

Cheers, Sam.
 
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