OZ ATV :: The Australian ATV Forum

[Postie]

A "bloke" told me the other day that Synthetic oil was realy only for the "Pro" riders trying to keep the weight down by using a lighter oil and that it really didn't protect the engine from impurities. Can any body tell me if mineral oil harms the engine

[450yam]

Mineral oil is fine, the biggest advantage with using systhetic oul is that it lasts longer, if you are slack on oil changes worth the money, if you change your oil every week or two you are wasting your money.

[Postie]

Righto that makes sense. The reason i wanted to try is to try and slow the oil leaking out the tell tale hole on the right hand side top of the head .If you now why it leaks out of here can you let me know ?

[discodanz]

hey hows it goin if the oil is leaking from where i think it is you bike must be pre 05 i think as there is a plug type thing i think its made off rubber , yamaha fixed for o5 and onwards models if this is the leaky spot im pretty sure you need to go to your dealer and get a new plug.
a couple of guys in quad riders sa have blown that plug out while ive been riding wth them ,, good luck disco danz

[Postie]

that sounds like the one 04 model just seeping at the moment but it sounds like you are saying they eventually blow out completley .

[noodles]

you can get billet ones, try hardiman or pete from southern quads also make a bracket to hold the rubber plug in coz if you lose it on a trail youll never find it

[450yam]

That is the hole to let water out of your spark plug hole, try tightening your plug

[PeteW]

If its the black rubber plug at the top of the head at the front then it will blow out if its already leaking. replacing it with another gen one will only do the same thing. I've got some billet plugs that secure into the head properly with the bolt around on the side of the head and not just press in like the std one.
$22 plus postage.

PM me or call 0419 001 747 if you want one
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[JB83]

Where yours is leaking mx4me is the drain hole just need to tighten the plug

[Postie]

yeah i just had a look and i will try that right now.But good to know about that other rubber bung to thanx pete.

[OZ_450]

the bracket you can use on the 04 will hold the plug in and also they are free from yamaha so go to your dealer and ask for one

i got mine from mt gambier dealer rang him and he posted it over free of charge as yamaha supplied him with a box full
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black covered in 5.7 powered oversize quad
model vx ss 350 hahaha
enough bass to compensate for lack of skills
Empty Wallet Racing proudly on track for GM Motorsport

[Postie]

Thanx for the help fellas

[450yam]

This is an O.K read.regarding synthetic oil.

http://www.amsoil.com/articlespr/articlegreatdebate.aspx

[Postie]

bloody oath It makes sense when they dumb it down , I'll stick with synthetic's i reckon. Hey how's the racing been up north.

[bullet]

Synthetic oil is still mineral oil based, but if you like, it is super clean.
It maintains its stability longer under more harsh circumstances than normal mineral oils.
450yam is right, that a good mineral oil changed very often will give you consistently great oil performance. Any oil suffers it's greatest deterioration from introduced contamination. In other words, if it's in an engine it will get carboned up and dirty. As soon as it does this you'de be better of with good quality new mineral oil.
A good quality indicator is a wide viscosity index... eg a 2.5w-50 is usually a good oil and a 20w-40 usually a lower quality oil.
So if you want the absolute best oil for the big race... generally the most expensive synthetic oil you can throw in on race day will give you the best protection.
won't garantee a win though.
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[Raptor700]

Bullet,

Synthetic oil is not a mineral oil based as it made synthetically. The oil is fabricated chemically from start to finish, That is why it is so expensibve. The cleanliness of the oil also depends on the manufacturer. I have seen some synthetic oils dirtier than mineral based oils. It all depends on the processing/refining, packing, filtration, bulk delivery etc etc. Contamination is a major point in oil selction and the only way to tell if it is dirty/clean is to send it to a lab and have them to carryout a particle count using a "laser net fines" test. Understandably not every average person is going to do this but it is quite interesting what is actually in your oil that you purchase off the shelf. You will also find that most oil suppliers give a cleanliness range that is at twice as clean as what the oil is. These codes are called ISO codes, but this is another story and i wont go into it. I reccommend using the most expensive readily available oil that you can get as this will possibly be the cleanest and best quality you can find.

Another point is that particle under 10 micron (invisible to the naked eye) will cause abrasion in an engine due to such tight tolerences. If you buy poor quality oils and try to put them in to high performance/high load engines then the risk of damage gets greater as the tolerences are a lot closer.

I wouldnt got putting such an oil into a normal engine that putts around the backyard but. I would rather go for a medium priced oil.

The key to getting good oil life is
- select the correct oil for the engines operating temperature and the ambient temperature. This is the viscosity index. NO use having a 5W (W grade oil if your in a hot climate)
- minimise contamination by keeping good quality air filters clean and sealed correctly
- If you have oil leaks fix them as they are a source of contamination ingress
- when working on your engine make sure all hoses are plugged and capped, make sure all parts are covered, keep everything as clean as possible
- change oil and filter regularly
- cut open old oil filter upon changing and check for wear debris.

Hope this doesnt bore you all. But I wanted to share a bit of info so all our fellow bikers dont go stuffing up good bikes.
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